PRO TIPS, AND JUST SOME GOOD ADVICE
from James Poirrier

BUZZBAITS: I never throw new buzz baits without hanging it out the window doing about 50 miles an hour for about a minute. The faster the blades turn the better. This does two things. It gets any little nicks or burrs off the blade shaft and back rivet, and if the bait doesn't already have that little squeak, running it in the wind will create that sound (if I have a buzz bait that doesn't squeak, I throw it out). After doing this, the buzz bait will surface quicker and is easier to keep on top, allowing you to fish it slower. The slower you can get a buzz bait to run, the better your chances of catching fish.

BACKLASHES: Even the pro's get backlashes from time to time. Ever wonder how they get them out so fast? Use tape on the spool. When you're finished spooling new line on a bait cast reel, grab the line and walk off about 50-75 yards of line. Take a piece of tape (I use electrical tape) and wrap around the spool, then wind the line back in. This will eliminate having to pick the line all the way down the spool. The backlash won't get past the tape. It's especially effective if flipping or pitching under docks, take about 20 yards off and do the same thing. Saves time on the water when every second counts.

BAIT LOSS: Tired of loosing those expensive crankbaits and rattle traps, or having to run a lure retriever down your line, ruining an area you think or know is holding fish? Give this a try, www.ultimateluresaver.com . I started using these titanium split rings a few years ago. I have them on every crankbait and rattle trap I own. Now I will throw bait in the nastiest looking places without worrying if I will get it back. It's a winner, no lost baits and you can get to where they live and increase your catch.

JIGS: Want more hook ups fishing a jig? Try these tips. Take a pair of pliers and bend the hook up slightly, this opens the gap a bit. Then trim off some of the weed guard, leaving about 1/8 inch above the point of the hook, this creates less resistance when setting the hook. Just make sure you bend the hook first then trim the weedguard, if not you might leave yourself short, and then the bait isn't weedless anymore.

FLIPPING: I love to flip and pitch jigs and soft plastics. I use the Jig-X made by Vertical lures (verticallures.com). When flipping grass, try to penetrate the mat; don't just hit the outside edges. Sometimes, especially when the sun is high the bigger fish will bury themselves in the thickest grass around. Usually it's the knot on the front that hangs in the weeds the Jig-X head design allows you to penetrate the grass without getting hung up because the knot is under the head and not exposed. When flipping soft plastics, I use Tru Tungsten exclusively. Using tungsten has great advantages. The #1 advantage for me is feeling, even the slightest tick is felt when using tungsten compared to lead, and a second can make all the difference when it comes to hook sets. #2 is being able to use a smaller profile weight to get into thick spots; you can use a 1/2 oz tungsten weight that is a lot smaller than a 1/2 oz lead weight. I peg weights with rubber inserts. I think the most important thing about pegging weights is when you set the hook; you want the weight to slide up the line and out of the way. If the weight doesn't slide up the line you will loose fish. To make sure mine slides, I use the same fish attractant I put on all my soft plastics. I use a little dab of Mega Strike on the line and slide the weight up and down a few times. This creates less resistance between the rubber inserts and the line. Mega Strike is a paste and doesn't wear off as fast as other fish attractants, and is a lot less messy than most conventional fish attractants.

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